DAHLONEGA, Ga. — So what wine goes best with fried pork rinds, anyway?
"That'd be Fat Boy Red," deadpanned Sharon Paul, not
missing a beat as she continued to pour at a tasting at her Three Sisters
Vineyards & Winery in the steep foothills of the Appalachian
Mountains.
Paul and her husband, Doug, a former broadcaster, own and
operate the kitschiest of a cluster of remarkable wineries just outside this
north Georgia town hitherto known principally for one of the nation's oldest
military colleges and the Southeast's biggest gold strike. (The U.S. government
actually established a branch mint here in 1838 to turn out gold
coins.)
But the gold in these hills here and now can be found in the
thousands of acres of grapevines laid out as if in military rows up and down the
steep slopes of outer Dahlonega. The place even looks like the Napa and Sonoma
valleys.
A short (once you get out of
Atlanta
traffic) drive due north from the state capital, Georgia's wine country beckons
oenophiles, tourists and folks just looking for a pleasant day out of the hustle
and bustle of the city for a taste of fine yet casual dining, decent live music
and surprisingly good local wine.
Arguably the best of that wine is
produced in the vineyards in and around Frogtown, a red-clay community perched
along the border of rural Lumpkin and White counties, where you can almost hear
the tune from "Deliverance" as you drive past the occasional dilapidated gray
wooden shack barely held together by rampant kudzu.
Within a Champagne
cork's toss from Three Rivers are two wineries recognized as producing wines on
a par with any in the storied California regions of Napa, Sonoma and Paso
Robles: BlackStock Vineyards and Winery and Frogtown Cellars.
"My wines
are an expression of this place," said BlackStock owner Dave Harris, a
fifth-generation Atlantan who studied at Fresno State University to hone his
craft, which he says is not just growing grapes but "growing
wine."
BlackStock's 40 hilly acres encompass 240,000 vines planted in
1997 and yield a wide range of wine grapes, from merlot to chardonnay to pinot
varieties. Harris modestly claims to be the second-largest grower on the East
Coast of viognier, a highly prized, once nearly extinct French grape that legend
claims was the favorite of kings.
But he seems most proud of the fact
that BlackStock's wines are "100 percent Georgia grown." Citing a unique
combination of soil, slope, rainfall and mountain-protected climate, the
soft-spoken but passionate winemaker declared, "This is an exceptional
grape-growing area."
Which explains in large part the mini explosion of
successful wineries that have cropped up in north Georgia over the last decade
and a half. The Georgia Winegrowers Association lists 10 local wineries within
an hour's drive of one another.
Michael Bryan, director of the
prestigious Atlanta Wine School, said the high elevation and cool climate
"provide the best chance of mimicking better known domestic wines from the West
Coast."
Just up the road from Three Sisters (named for the trio of
mountain peaks you can see from the porch) and BlackStock is what some critics
consider the best of the Georgia wineries: Frogtown Cellars.
Owner and
winemaker Craig Kritzer has built an impressive European-style operation in
Frogtown, embracing innovative winemaking techniques and combining that with
shrewd marketing concepts.
A retired lawyer from Atlanta, Kritzer
followed his passion for wine to realize his dream of owning what he claims is
the biggest homegrown vineyard (41 acres) in Georgia and — as he will tell
anyone who will listen — the best.
"We do not just say we make
competitive premium wines," Kritzer said. "We prove this characterization of our
wines by submitting Frogtown labeled wine to the rigors of competing against the
best wines produced anywhere in the world."
To back this up, he produces
a list of recent medals Frogtown Cellars has won in a slew of major U.S. wine
competitions.
While the title of No. 1 Georgia winery likely will
continue to be challenged by these competitive neighbors, most of the folks who
drive up from Atlanta or down from their mountain vacation homes mainly seem to
be looking for where they can have the most enjoyable wine-tasting experience.
All provide tastings, fine dining, live music and leisurely sipping — even
grape-stompings during harvest season — plus venues for weddings and
receptions.
The consensus seems to be that visitors leave happy,
whichever winery they visit — from the slick Old World Frogtown Cellars to the
engaging modern sincerity of BlackStock to the down-home atmosphere of Three
Sisters.
Which brings us back to Fat Boy Red. Where did that name come
from?
"Have you seen my husband?" Sharon Paul asked, gesturing to the
rather robust man in denim overalls pouring a glass for a visitor.
'Nuff
said.
If you go
Tastings generally run $15 for
eight or nine wines.
BlackStock Vineyards
and
Winery, 5400 Town Creek Road, Dahlonega; 706-219-2789, ext. 223;
bsvw.com
Prices range from $15 for a 2006 merlot to $32 for a 2008
reserve touriga. The 2010 reserve viognier is $25.
Frogtown Cellars, 3300
Damascus Church Road, Dahlonega, 706-865-0687, frogtownwine.com
Prices
range from $19 for a 2008 sangiovese to $50 for a 2006 Frogtown Family reserve
merlot. Most Frogtown wines are in the $20s.
Three
Sisters
Vineyards & Winery, 439 Vineyard Way, Dahlonega,
706-865-9463, threesistersvineyards.com
Prices range from $10 a bottle
for Chestatee red or Chestatee rose to $28 for a 2005 cabernet franc (from the
reserve list). Fat Boy Red is $15.
Other wineries in north
Georgia:
Cavendar Creek Vineyards and Winery, Dahlonega,
770-823-9255, cavendercreekvineyards.com
Crane Creek Vineyards, Young
Harris, 706-379-1236, cranecreekvineyards.com
Habersham Winery, Helen,
706-878-9463, habershamwinery.com
By J. Randolph
Murray, Special to Tribune Newspapers
4:44 p.m.
CDT, August
30, 2011
DAHLONEGA, Ga. — So what wine goes best with fried pork
rinds, anyway?
"That'd be Fat Boy Red," deadpanned Sharon Paul, not
missing a beat as she continued to pour at a tasting at her Three Sisters
Vineyards & Winery in the steep foothills of the Appalachian
Mountains.
Paul and her husband, Doug, a former broadcaster, own and
operate the kitschiest of a cluster of remarkable wineries just outside this
north Georgia town hitherto known principally for one of the nation's oldest
military colleges and the Southeast's biggest gold strike. (The U.S. government
actually established a branch mint here in 1838 to turn out gold
coins.)
But the gold in these hills here and now can be found in the
thousands of acres of grapevines laid out as if in military rows up and down the
steep slopes of outer Dahlonega. The place even looks like the Napa and Sonoma
valleys.
A short (once you get out of
Atlanta
traffic) drive due north from the state capital, Georgia's wine country beckons
oenophiles, tourists and folks just looking for a pleasant day out of the hustle
and bustle of the city for a taste of fine yet casual dining, decent live music
and surprisingly good local wine.
Arguably the best of that wine is
produced in the vineyards in and around Frogtown, a red-clay community perched
along the border of rural Lumpkin and White counties, where you can almost hear
the tune from "Deliverance" as you drive past the occasional dilapidated gray
wooden shack barely held together by rampant kudzu.
Within a Champagne
cork's toss from Three Rivers are two wineries recognized as producing wines on
a par with any in the storied California regions of Napa, Sonoma and Paso
Robles: BlackStock Vineyards and Winery and Frogtown Cellars.
"My wines
are an expression of this place," said BlackStock owner Dave Harris, a
fifth-generation Atlantan who studied at Fresno State University to hone his
craft, which he says is not just growing grapes but "growing
wine."
BlackStock's 40 hilly acres encompass 240,000 vines planted in
1997 and yield a wide range of wine grapes, from merlot to chardonnay to pinot
varieties. Harris modestly claims to be the second-largest grower on the East
Coast of viognier, a highly prized, once nearly extinct French grape that legend
claims was the favorite of kings.
But he seems most proud of the fact
that BlackStock's wines are "100 percent Georgia grown." Citing a unique
combination of soil, slope, rainfall and mountain-protected climate, the
soft-spoken but passionate winemaker declared, "This is an exceptional
grape-growing area."
Which explains in large part the mini explosion of
successful wineries that have cropped up in north Georgia over the last decade
and a half. The Georgia Winegrowers Association lists 10 local wineries within
an hour's drive of one another.
Michael Bryan, director of the
prestigious Atlanta Wine School, said the high elevation and cool climate
"provide the best chance of mimicking better known domestic wines from the West
Coast."
Just up the road from Three Sisters (named for the trio of
mountain peaks you can see from the porch) and BlackStock is what some critics
consider the best of the Georgia wineries: Frogtown Cellars.
Owner and
winemaker Craig Kritzer has built an impressive European-style operation in
Frogtown, embracing innovative winemaking techniques and combining that with
shrewd marketing concepts.
A retired lawyer from Atlanta, Kritzer
followed his passion for wine to realize his dream of owning what he claims is
the biggest homegrown vineyard (41 acres) in Georgia and — as he will tell
anyone who will listen — the best.
"We do not just say we make
competitive premium wines," Kritzer said. "We prove this characterization of our
wines by submitting Frogtown labeled wine to the rigors of competing against the
best wines produced anywhere in the world."
To back this up, he produces
a list of recent medals Frogtown Cellars has won in a slew of major U.S. wine
competitions.
While the title of No. 1 Georgia winery likely will
continue to be challenged by these competitive neighbors, most of the folks who
drive up from Atlanta or down from their mountain vacation homes mainly seem to
be looking for where they can have the most enjoyable wine-tasting experience.
All provide tastings, fine dining, live music and leisurely sipping — even
grape-stompings during harvest season — plus venues for weddings and
receptions.
The consensus seems to be that visitors leave happy,
whichever winery they visit — from the slick Old World Frogtown Cellars to the
engaging modern sincerity of BlackStock to the down-home atmosphere of Three
Sisters.
Which brings us back to Fat Boy Red. Where did that name come
from?
"Have you seen my husband?" Sharon Paul asked, gesturing to the
rather robust man in denim overalls pouring a glass for a visitor.
'Nuff
said.
If you go
Tastings generally run $15 for
eight or nine wines.
BlackStock Vineyards
and
Winery, 5400 Town Creek Road, Dahlonega; 706-219-2789, ext. 223;
bsvw.com
Prices range from $15 for a 2006 merlot to $32 for a 2008
reserve touriga. The 2010 reserve viognier is $25.
Frogtown Cellars, 3300
Damascus Church Road, Dahlonega, 706-865-0687, frogtownwine.com
Prices
range from $19 for a 2008 sangiovese to $50 for a 2006 Frogtown Family reserve
merlot. Most Frogtown wines are in the $20s.
Three
Sisters
Vineyards & Winery, 439 Vineyard Way, Dahlonega,
706-865-9463, threesistersvineyards.com
Prices range from $10 a bottle
for Chestatee red or Chestatee rose to $28 for a 2005 cabernet franc (from the
reserve list). Fat Boy Red is $15.
Other wineries in north
Georgia:
Cavendar Creek Vineyards and Winery, Dahlonega,
770-823-9255, cavendercreekvineyards.com
Crane Creek Vineyards, Young
Harris, 706-379-1236, cranecreekvineyards.com
Habersham Winery, Helen,
706-878-9463, habershamwinery.com
Montaluce Winery & Estates,
Dahlonega, 706-867-4060, montaluce.com
Persimmon Creek Vineyards,
Clayton, 706-212-7380, persimmoncreekwine.com
Sautee Nacoochee Vineyards,
Sautee, 706-878-1056, sauteenacoocheevineyards.com
Tiger Mountain
Vineyards, Tiger, 706-782-4777, tigerwine.com
Wolf Mountain Vineyards
& Winery, Dahlonega, 706-867-9862, wolfmountainvineyards.com
Yonah
Mountain Vineyards, Sautee-Nacoochee, 706-878-5522, yonahmountainvineyards.com
Montaluce Winery & Estates,
Dahlonega, 706-867-4060, montaluce.com
Persimmon Creek Vineyards,
Clayton, 706-212-7380, persimmoncreekwine.com
Sautee Nacoochee Vineyards,
Sautee, 706-878-1056, sauteenacoocheevineyards.com
Tiger Mountain
Vineyards, Tiger, 706-782-4777, tigerwine.com
Wolf Mountain Vineyards
& Winery, Dahlonega, 706-867-9862, wolfmountainvineyards.com
Yonah
Mountain Vineyards, Sautee-Nacoochee, 706-878-5522, yonahmountainvineyards.com